The Area
Montgreleix is one of those tiny mountain villages that seem to have stood still in time — perched high on the Cézallier plateau, surrounded by rolling hills, wild pastures, and endless skies. With barely a handful of houses, a church, and the welcoming Auberge du Cézallier, it feels more like a small community than a village. Life here moves at its own pace, shaped by the weather and the land.
On misty mornings, the valley disappears under a soft white blanket, and by afternoon, the sky opens up in a breathtaking panorama of light and color. Cows graze freely in the fields, the air smells of hay and woodfire, and silence stretches far — interrupted only by the wind or a distant bell.
Montgreleix isn’t a place you visit; it’s a place you feel. Whether you’re passing through for a hike, a hearty meal, or a quiet stay, it leaves you with the sense that simplicity and beauty still go hand in hand up here on the plateau. It makes me never want to leave or at least return a soon as possible.
Lachaux is a small hamlet next to Montgreleix and near Marcenat, and where our Airbnb is located. Surrounded by volcanic hills, green pastures, and dense forests, it offers a serene and authentic glimpse of rural Auvergne life. The area is known for its pure air, clear rivers, and traditional stone houses typical of the region. From Lachaux, you can explore numerous hiking and cycling trails that lead through scenic mountain landscapes and towards the Cézallier plateau — a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and anyone seeking peace and simplicity in the French countryside They call it “La Petite Mongolie” around here — little Mongolia, as the two friendly guys at the Auberge bar told us. And honestly, I get what they mean.
Hiking
Hiking here is pure joy for anyone who loves wide open spaces and raw, untamed nature — it’s a region that still breathes authenticity. Trails are quiet, the air feels cleaner, and time seems to slow down. Whether you’re climbing an old volcano or just wandering from village to village, the region invites you to walk, breathe and reconnect — with nature and yourself.
The Cascade de Saillant: From Lachaux – Between Mist, Meadows and Waterfalls
We started our 15 km hike straight from our Airbnb in Lachaux, wrapped in a soft morning mist that promised to lift as the day went on. The first stretch unfolded gently across rolling hills and quiet meadows, until we reached the Cascade du Saillant — a beautiful waterfall tucked away in the lush green valley. From there, the path meandered up and down through open fields, sometimes without a visible trail, but that’s part of the charm — just aiming for the next gate or ridge in sight. We passed slow-moving, long-haired cows who seemed perfectly at ease in their kingdom (watch your step though!).... Detailed report & description of the hike and the GPX file can be found here:
Hike – LachauxSurroundings
We did a little day trip to Clermont-Ferrand — a pleasant city, lively and full of people, but still… a city. The cathedral is truly impressive, rising dark and dramatic above the rooftops, but beyond that, it’s mostly shops, restaurants and cafés competing for your attention. Nice for a short visit, but not really what we’re after. Limoges, which we visited a few years ago, felt far more authentic and charming — less polished, more real. I was honestly relieved when we drove back up to our quiet mountain, surrounded by cows and wind, where everything slows down again. That’s more my kind of place.
Besse is a beautifully preserved medieval village perched on the slopes of the Sancy Massif. With its dark volcanic stone houses, narrow cobbled streets, and mountain views in every direction, it feels like stepping back in time. It really is a charming little gem — way more authentic than Clermont-Ferrand if you ask me and mimics the timeless vibe that breathes througout the whole area. Even the tourist shops blend in beautifully, wrapped in the same warm stone and timber style as the rest of the village. A lovely place to wander around for a bit while waiting for my horse-riding ladies to return from their adventure. And honestly, most villages in this region share that same magic — you don’t have to drive far to feel like you’ve slipped into another era. Just pick a direction, any direction, and you’ll stumble upon another timeless little place that makes you want to stay a while.
We visited in early November — the tail end of the season, really. That meant the weather could be a bit challenging at times, but we didn’t mind one bit. I actually love living with the weather — the mix of sun, rain, and mist, all served against the backdrop of this breathtaking high plateau. They say summers here can get quite busy, but I’ll take a sharp wind in my face over walking in neat lines of tourists any day.
Worth mentioning
- Our House / Air-bnb: "House 50 Belvédère du Cézallier" in the middle of nowhere but still very close to restaurants & small towns for all your needs. Excellent renovated house with style and Quality. Perfect spot to write or read a book, start your hikes or have a working holiday! We did a bit of all, writing, working, hiking, relaxing. It’s a wonderful place to live right in the middle of the natural elements — and truly feel them. We’ve had storms, thick fog that lingered for an entire day, stunning sunrises and sunsets. Sometimes it’s completely still, other times a relentless wind blows straight through you when you step outside. But inside the little house, you can watch it all unfold — listen, admire, and stay warm by the cozy fire. The view from the house is just stunning! I'v' been to many great huts, houses, ... but the view here straight from the livingroom is just stunning. (See timelapse video in gallery). You have this constant feeling of living above the clouds (and sometimes in the middle of them)
- Auberge Cézallier: What an excellent meal! Honest, hearty local food — simple, rich, and full of character. The kind that truly hits the spot after a long day in the hills. The locals at the bar added just as much flavor as the dishes — jolly, straightforward, and full of stories (and opinions!) about life up here. Everything feels real and unpolished in the best possible way: generous portions, local ingredients, and a warm, no-nonsense atmosphere. Apparently, it’s also a great place to stay — the rooms look lovely on their website, cozy and full of charm. A must-visit if you want to taste (and maybe sleep in) the true, soulful spirit of the Cézallier.
